Nepal Climbing Peaks

We offer a wide range of Nepal Climbing Peaks not all of these have fixed dates and therefore are available on a bespoke basis. Many of these peaks are rarely visited, more technical, well off the beaten track and therefore could be attractive to the more adventurous climber who likes a challenge. Refer to the NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association) climbing peaks chart to identify the popularity of each peak click here for chart. Please contact us for information and dates on the bespoke trekking peaks.

Expeditions and Climbing Peaks

All our expeditions and climbing peaks are supported by satellite phone, two way radio, support oxygen (when required) and comprehensive first aid medical kit. We only use top quality expedition tents.

High Altitude Warning

Safety is a major consideration during all our expeditions however there are dangers involved in climbing 6000m, 7000m and 8000m peaks that cannot be avoided. The extreme altitude, weather, cold and other mountaineering hazards ensure high altitude climbing has unavoidable risks at the best of times, members of our expeditions need to be aware of these dangers and accept that they are an integral part of high altitude mountaineering.

Nepal Climbing Peak Grading System:
Himalayan climbs do not fit easily into normal grading systems because the major difficulties are often not so much technical as those associated with acclimatisation: high altitude and / or large vertical intervals (the difference in height between the base camp and the summit). However it has become common to use the French Alpine Grading system.

It is now common for routes to be given a + or - within the grade to cater for superior or inferior routes. In addition to this, if you are reading an Alpine Club guide, you may also find that some of the ice pitches are described using the Scottish Technical Grade.   

Note:  For reference to Scottish Grades please Click here for our Grading Information page

Fee structure for Group 'B' NMA Peaks:
Royalty for 1-4 members:   US$ 350.00
Royalty for 5-8 members:   US$ 350.00 + US$ 40.00 per person
Royalty for 9-12 members: US$ 510.00 + US$ 25.00 per person

Note: Maximum number of members in one team is 12

Garbage deposit for all 33 NMA Peaks:
A Garbage Deposit fee of US $ 250.00 payable to the NMA is required to obtain permits for all 33 NMA peaks. Refunds on the Garbage Deposit shall be as per the NMA provisions.

Fee structure for Group 'A' NMA Peaks:
Royalty for up to seven members: US$ 500.00
Royalty for each additional member up to 12 persons: US$ 100.00

Links to necessary forms:
(a) Climbing Permit form
(b) Climbing Report form
(c) Garbage Deposit form

*Print the forms, then fill them in manually*

Permits to climb the 33 trekking peaks are issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) on a “first come, first served” basis. It is necessary to appoint a government recognised trekking agency in Nepal as local liaison for the expedition in Kathmandu. You must also employ a Sirdar (Climbing Sherpa) who is currently registered with the NMA, and if any Nepalese are to climb above base camp, you must insure them and supply them with climbing equipment. The trekking agency will look after all requirements during the expedition. (Trekking Encounters will assist you with all required paperwork and permits).

Team ethos and experience:
All climbing peak members must be aware that they have to be able to care for themselves in a winter/camping/climbing environment. There are obviously hazards when climbing Nepal’s climbing peaks and it would be preferred if each member has knowledge of roped, snow and ice climbing techniques and equipment. It is also required that all members have an awareness of the effects of high altitude sickness, frostbite and have recognition of their symptoms prevention and treatment. Once travelling above advanced base camp all members must be prepared to be tied into fixed lines or be roped to another team member. All members should join the expedition with a spirit of friendship, teamwork, cooperation and be committed to work with the group to be a team player.
 
To participate in any of the climbing peaks you should be fit and be an active walker/climber and in good health.

Training:
Upon arrival at base camp all climbing peak members are encouraged to participate in any necessary training in the areas of climbing techniques, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, abseiling, belaying, medical equipment and procedures, communication equipment, camping techniques and high altitude cooking. For the expert and beginners alike it is important to carry out this training in order to enhance skills, ensure safety awareness and work together as a team.

Safety:
All efforts are taken to ensure your safety and all climbing peak members have access to our extensive medical supplies and first aid kits in case of emergency.

Rules:
In exercise of the powers conferred by Nepal's Government, the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) has made the following rules to be observed for the climbing of the peaks of the Nepal Himalaya. These rules will come into force at once.
Definition:
Where applicable definitions for these rules will be the same as those for Nepal's Government Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and its first Amendment 1984.

Refund:
In the event of cancellation of the permission by the NMA or the failure of the expedition to materialise due to some other reasons, the fees already paid will not be refunded. Every individual or party granted a Sirdar/Guide, who must be registered with the NMA, should accompany a climbing permit.

Functions and duties of the Sirdar/Guide:

1. To assist the climbing party with recruitment of porters and other staff, control of porters, local purchase of food, etc. And to solve any problem that may arise to the best of his ability.
2. To report to the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) in case the party spends more than the prescribed time limit on the mountain.
3. To ensure that the climbers comply with the terms of their permit.
4. To ensure that the climbers (trekkers) follow the specified route.
5. To ensure proper disposal of waste materials.
6. To report to the NMA any infringement of the climbing rules.
7. To report any serious incidents to the nearest police post. The Sirdar Guide shall be employed from the day the climbing party begins the trek until the trek is finished. The Sirdar/Guide will be provided with the following facilities: Food and tent accommodation, climbing equipment and necessary clothing if required to go above the base camp.

Insurance:
All employees going above the base camp must be insured for personal accident to the value of Nepali Rupees. 200,000.
 
Nomination of representative in Kathmandu:
Each party granted a climbing permit would nominate a representative in Kathmandu to act as liaison between the NMA and the climbing party. The representative may be an individual or an organisation registered with the NMA. The nominated representative will be responsible for making the necessary arrangements for the climbing party in case of accidents or any other unforeseen circumstances.

Submission of report:
On the conclusion of the climb and on return to Kathmandu, the party will submit a report to the NMA on the form. Power to cancel the permit: - NMA may cancel or withdraw the climbing permit any time with or without showing any particular reason. Non-compliance of the regulation: Where any climbing party acts in contravention to the climbing permit or indulges in acts of unsocial or outrageous behaviour contrary to the customs and culture of the people of Nepal, the NMA may recommend to Nepal's Government to take necessary measures in accordance with Article 37 of the Mountaineering Regulations 1979.

Protection of environment:
Base Camp and other camps will be left perfectly clean at the conclusion of the climb. No foreign materials, such as fixed ropes, pitons, etc shall be left on the mountain. All rubbish and waste material must be burnt or otherwise disposed of.

Revision of the regulations:
Any article of this regulation may be revised or amended by the NMA with prior permission of the Government of Nepal.

Note: All rates are current but can be changed without prior notice.

Basic Expedition Package includes: 

• Peak Permit Fee
• National Park Conservation fee
• Accommodation in Kathmandu at a quality hotel on a bed and breakfast basis
• Transport as per itinerary for members, staff and liaison officer
• All internal air fares and taxes
• Climbing Sherpas' and Sirdar for the group
• Transport of all food and climbing equipment to base camp and back
• Full board during the trek
• All kitchen equipment, kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, chairs and tables at base camp
• Cook and kitchen staff at base camp
• Base camp tents one per 2 persons
• Base camp tents for members of staff
• Equipment allowance, wages and insurance for base camp staff and liaison officer
• Local transport in Kathmandu as per itinerary
• Helicopter rescue insurance for Nepalese staff
• Agency service charge
• Emergency equipment and supplies: oxygen(when required), medical kit, satellite phone, walkie-talkie radios
• Yaks and mules
• Access to team fixed ropes and camps
• Other necessary services and supplies i.e. extra yaks/mules and trek services.

Personal Equipment

• Ice Axe
• Crampons
• Harness
• 2 x Tape slings
• 2 x Screwgate Karabiners
• Descender / Abseil Device
• Ascender (e.g. Jumar)
• Prussic Loops
• Plastic mountaineering boots with Neoprene Overgaiters or 'System' boots (for example, La Sportiva Olympus Mons)
• 5 Season Sleeping Bag.

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition pack, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

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