Mt. Mera Peak Expedition

Overview

Climb Mt Mera Peak which is Nepal's highest permitted climbing peak at the lofty height of 6476m. Boasting an absolutely stunning summit panorama that includes five of the world's 8000m peaks - Mt Kangchenjunga, Mt Makalu, Mt Lhotse, Mt Cho Oyu and Mt Everest. Flying into the Khumbu by way of the high altitude airstrip at Lukla allows you time to spend acclimatising in the high and lovely Hinku valley below Mt Mera. Although physically very demanding, the climbing itself is quite technically straightforward, on snow slopes, which rarely exceed 30°. Far and above the most rewarding aspect of a trip to Mera Peak is a chance to venture into an isolated and unspoilt wilderness of massive moraines, glacial lakes and spectacular peaks and also the amazing spectacle of the sunrise on Everest and Kangchenjunga as we slowly ascend to Mera's triple summits, makes this one of the finest vantage points in Nepal.

The first ascent of Mt Mera was made on the 20 May 1953 by Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tensing by way of the Mera La which is now the standard route. According to records it would seem that the next ascent was not until 1975.

Expeditions and Climbing Peaks

All our expeditions and climbing peaks are supported by satellite phone, two way radio, support oxygen (when required) and comprehensive first aid medical kit. We only use top quality expedition tents.

High Altitude Warning

Safety is a major consideration during all our expeditions however there are dangers involved in climbing 6000m, 7000m and 8000m peaks that cannot be avoided. The extreme altitude, weather, cold and other mountaineering hazards ensure high altitude climbing has unavoidable risks at the best of times, members of our expeditions need to be aware of these dangers and accept that they are an integral part of high altitude mountaineering.

Experience Required

This mountain poses little technical difficulty, but at 6476m it is a strenuous climb with some short steeper sections of 35° snow. Previous experience of ice axe and crampons is highly recommended although not mandatory as basic ice axe and crampon training is given before the climb. The grade is F of the French Alpine Grading System. Our Scottish weekend meets will provide you with comprehensive preparations.

Trek Classification

click here to download Mt Mera Peak full itinerary   

Outline Itinerary

Personal Equipment

To join a Mt Mera Peak expedition you need the following specialist equipment: 

• Ice Axe
• Crampons
• Harness
• 2 x Tape slings
• 2 x Screwgate Karabiners
• Descender / Abseil Device
• Ascender (e.g. Jumar)
• Prussic Loops
• Plastic mountaineering boots with Neoprene Overgaiters or 'System' boots (for example, La Sportiva Olympus Mons)
• 5 Season Sleeping Bag.

Full specialist equipment list click here.

Details of equipment hire click here.

All other equipment is as is needed on a normal high altitude trek. A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition pack, which will be sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

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You must have adequate insurance for this type of trek. Click here