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Mt. Kusum Kangru Expedition

Overview

Climbing peak Kusum Kangru is an impressive rock and ice peak in Nepal and dominates the southern end of the Charpati Himal which separates the valley of the Dugh Khosi from the upper reaches of the Hinku Drangka. Of all the climbing peaks Kusum Kangru has the reputation of being the most difficult. Even on its most moderate route it should not be compared with climbs such as Island, Mera or Pisang Peaks. The climbing is technically difficult and needs a high degree of expertise. First assent was by a Japanese team in 1979.

Expeditions and Climbing Peaks

All our expeditions and climbing peaks are supported by satellite phone, two way radio, support oxygen (when required) and comprehensive first aid medical kit. We only use top quality expedition tents.

High Altitude Warning

Safety is a major consideration during all our expeditions however there are dangers involved in climbing 6000m, 7000m and 8000m peaks that cannot be avoided. The extreme altitude, weather, cold and other mountaineering hazards ensure high altitude climbing has unavoidable risks at the best of times, members of our expeditions need to be aware of these dangers and accept that they are an integral part of high altitude mountaineering.

Trek Classification

Duration22 days in total. 17 days trekking
Max. Altitude6387m (20,889ft)
Nepal Mountaineering Association RegisteredGroup 'B' NMA climbing peak 

French Alpine Grading System

click here to read more

TD+ (serious technical climbing, vertical ice)
RegionKhumbu Himal, Sagarmatha  
Type of Trek Teahouse / Camping
Principal Camps Camps One and Base Camp
Group Size Minimum 2 people  
PermitsIncluded in package
Garbage Deposit (refundable) US$250
 NMA Climbing Peaks Chart  For popularity of Mt Kusum Kangru click here        

Please contact us for full Expedition Itinerary for Mt Kusum Kangru

Outline Itinerary

Day 01:Arrive Kathmandu (1337m), collect from airport and transfer to hotel. (H.B)
Day 02:Kathmandu equipment preparation and sightseeing. (H. D/B)
Day 03:Fly to Lukla (2840m) 35 mins. Trek to Phakding. (T. B/L/D) 
Day 04:Trek to Namche Bazaar. (T. B/L/D) 
Day 05:Acclimatisation and rest day. (T. B/L/D) 
Day 06:Trek to Camp One. (C. B/L/D) 
Day 07:Trek to Base Camp. (C. B/L/D) 
Day 08-15:Climbing Period. (C. B/L/D) 
Day 16-17:Trek back to Namche Bazaar. (T. B/L/D) 
Day 18:Trek to Lukla. (T. B/L/D) 
Day 19:Fly to Kathmandu. (H.B)
Day 20-21:Kathmandu. (H.B)
Day 22: Depart Kathmandu.

Personal Equipment

To join a Mt Kusum Kangru Peak expedition you need the following specialist equipment: 

  • Ice Axe
  • Crampons
  • Harness
  • 2 x Tape slings
  • 2 x Screwgate Karabiners
  • Descender / Abseil Device
  • Ascender (e.g. Jumar)
  • Prussic Loops
  • Plastic mountaineering boots with Neoprene Overgaiters or 'System' boots (for example, La Sportiva Olympus Mons)
  • 5 Season Sleeping Bag.

Full specialist equipment list click here.

Details of equipment hire click here.

All other equipment is as is needed on a normal high altitude trek. A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition pack, which will be sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

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You must have adequate insurance for this type of trek. Click here