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Mt. Imja Tse (Island Peak) Expedition

Overview 

Climb Island Peak which is one of the more popular climbing peaks in Nepal. Standing beyond Chhukhung and near the head of the valley of the Imja Khola it is surrounded by glaciers. The views from the summit are outstanding with Lhotse soaring above to its North, Baruntse to the southeast with Makalu well to the east. The classic route to the summit is the narrow North ridge but it is the southwest ridge which is the most common route taken. It is a very popular climbing peak and its first ascent was by members of the British Expedition in 1953. The members of the expedition were Charles Evans, Alf Gregory, Charles Wylie and Tenzing Norgay along with seven Sherpas. Island Peak was named by Eric Shipton in 1952. When viewed from above Dingboche the mountain does resemble an island in a sea of ice. It was renamed Imja Tse in 1983 although most people still refer to it as Island Peak.

Expeditions and Climbing Peaks

All our expeditions and climbing peaks are supported by satellite phone, two way radio, support oxygen (when required) and comprehensive first aid medical kit. We only use top quality expedition tents.

High Altitude Warning

Safety is a major consideration during all our expeditions however there are dangers involved in climbing 6000m, 7000m and 8000m peaks that cannot be avoided. The extreme altitude, weather, cold and other mountaineering hazards ensure high altitude climbing has unavoidable risks at the best of times, members of our expeditions need to be aware of these dangers and accept that they are an integral part of high altitude mountaineering.

Experience Required

To join this expedition you will have ideally completed climbs of Scottish Grade II or Alpine PD. Overall this expedition is less persistent and strenuous than Mera Peak, however the technical difficulty is higher than that of Mera. The grade is PD+ of the French Alpine Grading System. Our Scottish weekend meets will provide you with comprehensive preparations.

Trek DatesPricing
Mon 20 Sep - Fri 08 Oct 2010 £1,675 (19 days duration) Land Only
Mon 22 Nov - Fri 10 Dec 2010£1,675 (19 days duration) Land Only
Mon 20 Dec 2010 - Fri 07 Jan 2011£1,775 (19 days duration) Land Only
Mon 07 Feb - Fri 25 Feb 2011 £1,875 (19 days duration) Land Only 
Mon 07 Mar - Fri 25 Mar 2011 £1,875 (19 days duration) Land Only
Mon 11 Apr - Fri 29 Apr 2011 £1,875 (19 days duration) Land Only
Mon 19 Sep - Fri 07 Oct 2011 £1,875 (19 days duration) Land Only
Mon 21 Nov - Fri 09 Dec 2011 £1,875 (19 days duration) Land Only 
Mon Dec 21 2011 - Fri 06 Jan 2012£1,875 (19 days duration) Land Only 

Trek Classification

Duration19 days in total. 15 days trekking 
Max. Altitude6189m (20,305ft)
Nepal Mountaineering Association Registered Group 'B' NMA climbing peak

French Alpine Grading System

click here to read more

PD+ (scrambling ground, slopes maybe 40 degrees) 
RegionKhumbu Himal, Sagarmatha
Type of TrekTeahouse / Camping
Principal CampsBase Camp: Pareshaya Gab (5078m). High Camp: Above Pareshaya Gab +/- (5700m)
Group SizeMinimum 2 people
PermitsIncluded in package
Garbage Deposit (refundable)US$250
NMA Climbing Peaks Chart For popularity of Mt Imja Tse (Island Peak) click here     

Island Peakclick here to download Island Peak full itinerary   

Outline Itinerary

Day 01:Arrive Kathmandu (1337m), collect from airport and transfer to hotel. (H.B).
Day 02:Kathmandu equipment preparation and sightseeing.  (H. D/B).
Day 03:Fly to Lukla (2840m) then trek to Phakding (2610m). (T.B/L/D).
Day 04:Trek to Namche Bazaar (3446m).  (T.B/L/D).
Day 05:Rest and acclimatisation day. (T.B/L/D).
Day 06:Trek to Tengboche (3867m). (T.B/L/D).
Day 07:Trek to Dingboche (4410m). (T.B/L/D). 
Day 08:Trek to Chhukung. (T.B/L/D). 
Day 09:Acclimatisation and excursion to Chhukung Ri (5650m). (T.B/L/D). 
Day 10:Trek to Island Peak Base Camp. (C/ B/L/D)
Day 11:High Camp. (C/ B/L/D)
Day 12:       Summit Day (6189m) then trek back to Chhukung. (T.B/L/D). 
Day 13:Trek to Dingboche. (T.B/L/D). 
Day 14: Trek to Tengboche. (T.B/L/D).
Day 15:Trek to Namche Bazaar. (T.B/L/D).
Day 16:Trek to Lukla (T.B/L/D).
Day 17:Fly to Kathmandu. (H/B)
Day 18:Kathmandu. (H/B)
Day 19: Depart Kathmandu.

Personal Equipment

To join a Mt Imja Tse (Island Peak) expedition you need the following specialist equipment: 

  • Ice Axe
  • Crampons
  • Harness
  • 2 x Tape slings
  • 2 x Screwgate Karabiners
  • Descender / Abseil Device
  • Ascender (e.g. Jumar)
  • Prussic Loops
  • Plastic mountaineering boots with Neoprene Overgaiters or 'System' boots (for example, La Sportiva Olympus Mons)
  • 5 Season Sleeping Bag.

Full specialist equipment list click here.

Details of equipment hire click here.

All other equipment is as is needed on a normal high altitude trek. A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition pack, which will be sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

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You must have adequate insurance for this type of trek. Click here