Expedition Overview

We establish four camps on the mountain:

Camp 1 - Top of the Khumbu Icefall (6066m / 19,900 ft)
Camp 2 - Advanced base camp (6492m / 21,300 ft) the Western Cwm
Camp 3 - Halfway up the Lhotse Face (7468m / 24,500 ft)
Camp 4 - South Col (7925m / 26,000 ft)

Separating the climb of Mt Everest into four distinct sections gives variety, although they do have their individual challenges and hazards. Dividing the mountain into four parts also has psychological benefits, enabling climbers to focus on each section and to measure their progress up the mountain more easily.

South Col Route

Camp 1 - The Khumbu Icefall

Before venturing into the ‘Khumbu Icefall’, members will gain experience in the specialist techniques of secure movement through complex ice terrain including ladder crossing and the use of fixed rope. Each year there is one route fixed through the famous ‘Khumbu Icefall’ and thanks for this should be given to a dedicated team of Sherpas known as the “Icefall Doctors” they do this dangerous job every year and make life a lot easier and safer for all of those who follow. The dangers of the ‘Khumbu Icefall’ come from the fact that the ice is constantly moving and giant blocks can collapse without warning so speed of movement and timing is paramount. All members will need to participate in the load carrying to Camp 1 although this will be kept to a minimum as the Sherpas will do the bulk of the load carrying in order to prevent members from burning themselves out too early. Camp 1 should be seen as a staging post to reach Camp 2. (6066m / 19,900 ft).

Camp 2 - The Western Cwm

The Western Cwm is an impressive corridor of a magnitude that is difficult to comprehend it is walled in by Everest’s West Ridge to the left and Nuptse to the right. A normal course of events would be for everyone to reach camp 1 with a light load and then return back to base camp. One or two days later the team would occupy camp 1 and spend two to three nights there. Whilst at camp 1 members may make a carry to camp 2 after the route has been prepared. Camp 2 is near the top of the Western Cwm and although this is not with fixed rope members would need to be roped up in case of hidden crevasses. Everyone would then return to base camp for a few days rest. (6492m / 21,300 ft).

Camp 3 - The Lhotse Face

The team will then move up to camp 2, this is a spectacular position at the foot of the South West Face of Everest. Camp 2 is in effect an advance base camp and is well stocked with supplies, including mess tent and cook tent. Two nights are spent here and the team will make a light load carry to camp 3 on the Lhotse Face, at around 7,200m (23,600ft). An ascent of the Lhotse Face will give everyone a really good view and a taste of what is to come. We will then return to base camp for an extended rest while the Sherpa team and the expedition leaders will prepare the top section of the climb. This will be a real chance to recharge the batteries after a tough few weeks and to focus on the final ascent. During this phase previous climbers have found it very beneficial to go all the way down to Pherriche, which at 4,300m (14,000ft) is low enough to recuperate fully.  (7468m / 24,500 ft).

Camp 4 - The Summit (South East) Ridge

When weather conditions are settled, the team will move up, camp by camp, sleeping on oxygen at camp 3 and on the South Col, at camp 4. The summit day will start at around midnight, when, climbing on oxygen, we will set off with head torches from the South Col. The route soon steepens as we ascend a 500m (1,600ft) snow slope to reach the crest of the South East Ridge at around 8,400m (27,560ft) by dawn. The sun rise will bring with it great views across the Kangshung Face. The ridge above this point starts easily and then steepens below the South Summit. Fixed ropes lead steeply for about 200m (650ft) from below the South Summit. Standing on the South Summit the true summit looks very close but halfway between them is the infamous Hillary Step which is a short, steep rock and snow groove about 10m (30ft) long. Strenuous jumaring and climbing up this leads to the final easy ridge and the top. We would expect to reach the summit by no later than 11am. For the successful summiteers, it will be important for everyone to have left the summit by 12 o'clock noon for the descent. The entire team should be back before dark which comes rapidly at around 6:30 pm. The descent is extremely long and tiring and energy should be kept in reserve for this. (7925m / 26,000 ft).

After spending another night sleeping with oxygen, the team will descend from camp 4, on the South Col, directly to camp 2 and then, the next day, to base camp. (5395m 17,700).