Nepal Expeditions

Climbing 'Expedition Peaks'
 
Two organisations control climbing expeditions in Nepal. The Ministry of Culture Tourism and Civil Aviation (MoTCA) is responsible for major expeditions and the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) is responsible for trekking peaks.
 
The Mountaineering Section of the Ministry of Culture Tourism and Civil Aviation issues climbing permit to scale the Nepal Himalayas in all seasons. Certain official documents are required to seek permission for climbing peaks. Around 121 peaks do not require a liaison officer for expeditions
 
The rules for mountaineering on major peaks require a minimum of six months advance application to the Ministry of Culture Tourism and Civil Aviation for a climbing permit completed application, endorsement of the National Alpine Club, from the country organising the expedition. Short biographies of all the members of the expedition team (with photograph and signature) map and photograph of the mountain indicating the climbing route and approach route map.
 
Note: If there is any change in the royalty amount before receiving the briefing from the Ministry even after one has already paid the royalty under this Regulation, the mountaineering expedition team shall pay the changed amount of the royalty.
 
The leader of the expedition team is required to pay the full amount of the climbing permit within two months of the date of climbing. In cases where failure to pay within this time period permission may be annulled.

Expeditions and Trekking Peaks

All our expeditions and trekking peaks are supported by satellite phone, walkie-talkie, support oxygen (when required), Portable Altitude Chamber and comprehensive first aid medical kit. We only use top quality expedition tents manufactured in Europe.

High Altitude Warning

Safety is a major consideration during all our expeditions however there are dangers involved in climbing 6000m, 7000m and 8000m peaks that cannot be avoided. The extreme altitude, weather, cold and other mountaineering hazards ensure high altitude climbing has unavoidable risks at the best of times, members of our expeditions need to be aware of these dangers and accept that they are an integral part of high altitude mountaineering.

Latest Update on Royalty Fees:

''Nepal for all Seasons''

1. To provide discount of 75% in Winter and Summer Season and 75% in Autumn Season  keeping intact the Royalty Fee in Spring Season.
2. To increase the number of climbing members in an expedition from 12 to 15.
3. To provide 100% discount on Royalty Fee for mountains located in Mid and Far Western Development Regions for 5 years.
4. To implement Incremental Royalty Break-down System (IRDS), a system under which permit fee increases with the increase in the number of climbing members, on all mountains, instead of a lump sum per expedition having climbing members seven or less.

The Ministry hopes that the new provisions in mountaineering royalty, that will come into effect from Shravan 1, 2065 (July 16, 2008), will help increase the number of mountaineering expeditions/Climbs in Nepal.

Annex-4  (Related to Rule 4, Sub-Rule 1)

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (in US$)
 
A. Name of Mountain: Everest (8848m)
    Climbing Route: South East Ridge (Normal Route)

B. Name of Mountain: Everest (8848m)
    Climbing Route: All routes except South East Ridge (Normal Route)  

C. Height of Mountain: All mountains above 8000m (except Everest)  

D. Height of Mountain: All mountains above 7501m to 7999m 

E. Height of Mountain: All mountains above 7000m to 7500m 

F. Height of Mountain: All mountains above 6501m to 6999m  

G. Name of Mountain: Ama Dablam (6812m) 

H. Height of Mountain: 6500m or below

Seasons:
There are four main mountaineering seasons - spring (March to May), summer (June to August), autumn (September to November) and winter (December to February).

Liaison Officers:
Why we need a liaison officer?
The primary function of a liaison officer is to ensure that the mountaineering regulations and laws of Nepal are adhered to.
What to include when appointing a liaison officer?
The expedition team must cover all costs of the liaison officer. This includes wages, equipment allowance, transport, meals and suitable accommodation for the entire expedition period. The liaison officer must also be insured against accidents.

Environmental Deposit:
Teams attempting peaks within the Khumbu Region must deposit US$ 4,000 for Everest expeditions, US$ 3,000 for other 8,000m peaks and US$ 2,000 for peaks less than 8,000m. This deposit is refundable upon the team removing all their garbage on completion of the expedition.

Expedition Grading System:
Variable grades are given where there are options for different levels of climbers
Grading routes can be a complex combination of factors including:

• The technical difficulties of the crucial sections of the route
• Length of the route
• Height of the peak
• Objective dangers

The overall grade is defined within a scale of 1 to 6 for technical difficulty together with a letter grade A-D which indicates the level of fitness required alongside other variable factors. All technical difficulties described for each grade may not be relevant, for example if the route is predominately on snow then rock climbing skills may not be required. Please feel free to contact Trekking Encounters if you are in doubt as to whether your experience or fitness would match your choice of expedition.
 
Fitness: 

Expedition Fitness:
In all cases your chance of success and level of enjoyment will depend very much on your level of fitness. The grading system set out above gives you an indication of the level required for each expedition.
 
Technical Difficulty (could include):

Note:  For reference to Scottish Grades please Click here for our Grading Information page. 

Team Ethos/Experience Required:
All expedition members must be aware that they have to be able to care for themselves in a winter/camping/climbing environment. There are obviously hazards when climbing Nepal’s 6000m,7000m,8000m peaks and each member must have knowledge of roped snow and ice climbing techniques. It is also required that all members have an acute awareness of the effects of high altitude sickness, frostbite and have recognition of their symptoms prevention and treatment. Once travelling above advanced base camp all members must be prepared to be tied into fixed lines or be roped to another team member at all times. Solo climbing nor descending are allowed above advanced base camp. All members should join the expedition with a spirit of friendship, teamwork, cooperation and be committed to work with the group to be a team player.
 
Training:
Upon arrival at base camp all full service and basic climb members are encouraged to participate in one to two days of training in the areas of climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, abseiling, belaying, medical equipment and procedures, communication equipment, camping techniques and high altitude cooking. For the expert and beginners alike it is important to carry out this training in order to enhance skills, ensure safety awareness and work together as a team.

Basic Expedition Package includes: 

• Peak Permit Fee
• National Park Conservation fee
• Accommodation in Kathmandu at a quality hotel on a bed and breakfast basis
• Transport as per itinerary for members, staff and liaison officer
• All internal air fares and taxes
• Climbing Sherpas' and Sirdar for the group
• Transport of all food and climbing equipment to base camp and back
• Full board during the trek
• All kitchen equipment, kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, chairs and tables at base camp
• Cook and kitchen staff at base camp
• Base camp tents one per 2 persons
• Base camp tents for members of staff
• Equipment allowance, wages and insurance for base camp staff and liaison officer
• Local transport in Kathmandu as per itinerary
• Helicopter rescue insurance for Nepalese staff
• Agency service charge
• Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, portable altitude chamber, base camp medical kit, high altitude medical kit, satellite phone, walkie-talkie radios
• Yaks and mules
• Access to team fixed ropes and camps
• Other necessary services and supplies i.e. extra yaks/mules and trek services.

Full Service Expedition Package includes:

• Service above base camp
• Advanced base camp cooks
• Advanced base camp food
• Use of group gear and supplies: ropes, snow anchor protection for ice, rock and snow
• Tents above base camp
• Cookers, fuel
• High altitude food.

Basic and Full Service Expedition Package excludes:    

• International air fares
• Nepal entry visa fee
• Visa extension
• Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
• Personal climbing gear
• Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation
• Nepal Custom Duty for import of expedition goods arriving to Nepal by air or road
• Personal expenses such as snacks, alcohol, laundry, postage, telephone, etc.
• International airport departure tax
• Tips and bonuses
• Garbage deposit - refundable

Personal Equipment

• Ice Axe
• Crampons
• Harness
• 2 x Tape slings
• 2 x Screwgate Karabiners
• Descender / Abseil Device
• Ascender (e.g. Jumar)
• Prussic Loops
• Plastic mountaineering boots with Neoprene Overgaiters or 'System' boots (for example, La Sportiva Olympus Mons)
• 5 Season Sleeping Bag.

All other equipment is as is needed on a normal high altitude trek. A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition pack, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

Safety:
All efforts are made to ensure your safety and all members of our expeditions have access to our extensive medical supplies, first aid kits, medical oxygen and a gamow bag in case of emergency.

Communications:
During our expeditions we regularly update our website with the progress of our expeditions to allow family, friends and sponsors to monitor progress. Our expeditions are equipped with walkie talkies for each member and a satellite telephone for international telephone calls and e-mails. Calls will be charged per minute for the use of the telephone.

Radio and Telephone Permits:
Operating licenses must be obtained and paid for to use two-way radio equipment and telephones.
 
Filming Permits:
Expedition teams wishing to make documentary films of their climb must obtain government permission and pay an associated permit fee.

Cooks and Food:
On the trek and in base camp,high camp,and advance camp our qualified cooks provide three varied, nutritious meals each day. Unlimited hot drinks are provided. In general food on trek and at base camp consists of local fresh produce which is often supplemented with supplies from the UK. On the mountains there will be plenty of snack food, chocolate, cereal bars, jelly, nuts, etc. At high camp we will generally use ration packs including a combination of boil-in-the-bag and freeze dried food supplemented by cheese, or items found locally. For Team Building and to keep interest we suggest each member brings a small ‘luxury’ item to share at some point with the rest of the group.             

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