Mt Tukuche Expedition (6920m)

Overview

Climb Mt Tukuche a stunning peak situated in front of Dhaulagiri and the Annapurna range of mountains in Nepal. This is an area that is seldom visited by commercial trekking companies due to its remote location and the seriousness of the terrain; there are no tourist routes around Dhaulagiri. Indeed the Circuit of Dhaulagiri is considered the second most demanding outing in Nepal, second only to the Ice Col trek.
 
Our route to Base Camp will be via the Annapurna Circuit which is well provided with lodge accommodation. For those that have not visited the Annapurna region we can assure you it is pure magic; yes it can be busy but the scenery is magnificent, the lodges are very comfortable and the standard of food they serve is also extremely good. The high point of the circuit is crossing the Thorong La 5600m. From there we will get views of the Dhaulagiri range and the north face of Tukuche, don’t worry, we are doing the straightforward North West ridge route, a long, non technical snow climb.
 
We will probably take twelve days to reach Jomsom where we will meet up with the expedition crew who will have the equipment and provisions for the climb. We will now be in tip top condition and well acclimatised which is just as well as the two day trek from Jomsom to Base Camp is hard, from 2730m over Dhampus Pass 5500m, then down to Base Camp at 5160m!
 
Having set up Base Camp we will begin pushing out the route and acclimatising. Tukuche was first climbed by a Swiss team in 1969; it is believed there have been 19 assents since then. There are no detailed accounts of these ascents but one of our climbing Sherpa’s has done the route and recommends it. It is likely we will need to put in two high camps on our way to the summit. The climbing phase over we will retrace our steps to Jomsom for a flight out to Pokhara and then on to Kathmandu.

Expeditions and Trekking Peaks

All our expeditions and trekking peaks are supported by satellite phone, walkie-talkie, support oxygen (when required), Portable Altitude Chamber and comprehensive first aid medical kit. We only use top quality expedition tents manufactured in Europe.

High Altitude Warning

Safety is a major consideration during all our expeditions however there are dangers involved in climbing 6000m, 7000m and 8000m peaks that cannot be avoided. The extreme altitude, weather, cold and other mountaineering hazards ensure high altitude climbing has unavoidable risks at the best of times, members of our expeditions need to be aware of these dangers and accept that they are an integral part of high altitude mountaineering.

Experience Required

The Mt Tukuche expedition is suitable for those who have experienced 5000m and 6000m peaks. It is a great opportunity to be introduced to a near 7000m peak. Although it is considered objectively safe ideally you should have some previous Alpine and Scottish mountaineering experience or equivalent. The grade is 3D. Our Scottish weekend meets will provide you with comprehensive preparations.

Expedition Classification

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Outline Itinerary

Personal Equipment