Mt Kangchenjunga Expedition (8586m)

Overview

Mt Kangchenjunga is the most easterly of the 8000m peaks of the Nepal Himalayas. It is the third highest mountain in the world from 1838 until 1849 it was believed to be the highest. Its name translated means  "The Five Great Treasures of the Snow" as it is an enormous mountain mass containing five peaks rising from its narrow icy ridges, four of them over 8450m. To the locals Kangchenjunga is the abode of gods who bestow prosperity and benevolence on them and their lands but to climbers of this mountain the phrase "Five Great Treasures of the Snow" takes on a slightly more ominous tone. The avalanches that Kangchenjunga throws down are said to be the largest anywhere. Located on the border of Nepal and Sikkim some 46 miles North West of Darjeeling and situated in the Kangchenjunga Conservation area the mountain is revered by the people of Sikkim as a sacred mountain and known for its famous views from the hill station of Darjeeling.

First ascent was by Joe Brown and George Band on May 25 1955 followed by Norman Hardy and Tony Streather on May 26 1955. In 1982: Reinhold Messner, Friedl Mutschelecher and Sherpa Ang Dorje climbed a new route on the NW Face. They climbed a spur above the 1979 British and 1980 Japanese Direct routes, reaching the North Ridge near the North Col, and then following the ridge to the summit. An epic descent in a blizzard follows where Messner later learns that he had an amoebic liver abscess. Polish climbers made the first winter ascent on January 11 1986. Because of its remote location the Kangchenjunga area has retained much of its beauty and only recently has trekking in the Kangchenjunga region of Sikkim been permitted. The Goecha La Trek is becoming more popular amongst trekkers this goes to the Goecha La Pass which is located in front of the massive southeast face of Kangchenjunga. Green Lake Basin trek has just recently been opened and goes to the northeast side of Kangchenjunga along the famous Zemu Glacier.

Kangchenjunga's huge massive is buttressed by great ridges which run roughly due east to west and north to south, forming a great X. The ridges have many peaks between 6000m and 8000m. The East Ridge in Sikkim, is Siniolchu (6888m). The west ridge is the magnificent Jannu (7710m) with its imposing north face. To the south, clearly visible from Darjeeling, are Kabru North (7338m), Kabru South (7316m) and Rathong peaks (6678m). The north ridge, after passing through the minor sub peak Kangchenjunga North (7741m), contains The Twins and Tent Peak, and runs up to the Tibetan border by the Jongsong La, a 6120m pass.
The crossing of high passes requires good weather - snow could mean that the trail has become dangerous for travel and heavy rains often cause landslides that wipe out whole sections of trails. Prolonged stays at high altitude requires that participants on this expedition be in peak physical condition.

The route North (Face) is definitely the safest, although not the easiest. To climb Kangchenjunga start from base camp in the meadows of Panorama at 5180m. The first challenge is to fix lines up 900m of intricate mixed climbing to the North Col which provides the most challenging climbing of the expedition. Once creating a lifeline to and from the North Col you can begin the long process of establishing three camps up a long and complicated North Ridge. Using Sherpa support and oxygen, you can move at a systematically slow velocity higher and higher up the mountain. This is a highly satisfying climb for the expert Climbers.

Kangchenjunga Peaks:
Kangchenjunga Main (8586m)
Kangchenjunga West (Yalung Kang) (8505m)
Kangchenjunga Central (Middle) (8482m)
Kangchenjunga South (8494m)
Kangbachen (7903m) 

Expeditions and Trekking Peaks

All our expeditions and trekking peaks are supported by satellite phone, walkie-talkie, support oxygen (when required), Portable Altitude Chamber and comprehensive first aid medical kit. We only use top quality expedition tents manufactured in Europe.

High Altitude Warning

Safety is a major consideration during all our expeditions however there are dangers involved in climbing 6000m, 7000m and 8000m peaks that cannot be avoided. The extreme altitude, weather, cold and other mountaineering hazards ensure high altitude climbing has unavoidable risks at the best of times, members of our expeditions need to be aware of these dangers and accept that they are an integral part of high altitude mountaineering.

Experience Required

To join the Mt Kangchenjunga expedition you will need to have extensive mountaineering experience. This should include previous high altitude experience of at least 6000m+, mixed with a large number of Alpine climbs and preferably you will have taken part in a previous 8000m expedition. Experience has shown that those that have previously been to an 8000m peak have a considerably better chance of getting to the top of Kangchenjunga. The seriousness of Kangchenjunga should not be under estimated in anyway. The grade is 5D. Our Scottish weekend meets will provide you with comprehensive preparations.

Expedition Classification

Please contact us for full Expedition itinerary for Kangchenjunga

Outline Itinerary

Personal Equipment 

To join a Mt Kangchenjunga expedition you will require specialist equipment click here.

Details of equipment hire click here. 

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You must have adequate insurance for this type of trek. Click here