Cho Oyu Expedition (8201m)

Overview

Climb Cho Oyu, situated in the Khumbu region of Nepal the world's sixth highest mountain is an excellent introduction to an 8000m peak. Although it is regarded as a technically straightforward 8000m peak the altitude of 8201m makes it a serious undertaking and requires some careful preparation and a very high level of fitness. Choy Oyu means 'Goddess of Turquoise', as its bold shadows appear this colour in the shadow of the setting sun when viewed from Tibet. This mountain is a massive of sweeping snow slopes and sharp glaciated lines; a very impressive first 8000m peak.

Cho Oyu was first climbed in October 1954 by an Australian climbing pair aided by Pasang Dawa Lama (Nepal). The first 8000m to have its first ascent in autumn.

The elegant North West face of Cho Oyu brings you up fairly easy angled 30° snow slopes. There is however one steep serac barrier to negotiate at 6800m. Where necessary, fixed lines are placed to aid us on steeper sections. Following our acclimatisation walks in Nylam and Tingri, we will arrive at the Chinese Base Camp where we begin our exciting preparations to move up to Advance Base Camp at 5700m via an Intermediate Camp at around 5400m, to aid acclimatisation.

Camp 1 (6400m) is reached in 4-6 hours via an initial walk up the Gyabrag Glacier, up steep scree to a broad snow shoulder and our first high camp.

Camp 2 (7100m) we follow the snow ridge out of Camp 1 to a steep 50m ice wall, which provides us with our most challenging climbing on this route. To make this ascent safe we use fixed ropes.

Camp 3 (7500m) we are now on easier ground and we reach our third camp in around four hours. At this altitude there is a tremendous sense of effort to gain further height.

Summit Day: It takes 8-10 hours to attain Cho Oyu's grand summit plateau. The route takes us over moderately easy snow and rock; it is now only the weather and altitude that can stand in our way of conquering this grand 8000m peak.

Expeditions and Trekking Peaks

All our expeditions and trekking peaks are supported by satellite phone, walkie-talkie, support oxygen (when required), Portable Altitude Chamber and comprehensive first aid medical kit. We only use top quality expedition tents manufactured in Europe.

High Altitude Warning

Safety is a major consideration during all our expeditions however there are dangers involved in climbing 6000m, 7000m and 8000m peaks that cannot be avoided. The extreme altitude, weather, cold and other mountaineering hazards ensure high altitude climbing has unavoidable risks at the best of times, members of our expeditions need to be aware of these dangers and accept that they are an integral part of high altitude mountaineering.

Experience Required

The Cho Oyu expedition is suitable for experienced mountaineers. To join us you need to be fully proficient with mountaineering techniques. Ideally having experience of Alpine climbs or equivalent to AD+ and also having previous altitude experience of 6000m+. The grade is 4E. Our Scottish weekend meets will provide you with comprehensive preparations.

Expedition Classification

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Outline Itinerary

Personal Equipment